Vintage Smoky Topaz and Aurora Borealis Rhinestone Sunburst Brooch

This is a vintage mid-century costume jewelry brooch featuring a multi-layered sunburst or starburst configuration. The piece is constructed with gold-tone metal and set with varying shades of brown and champagne faceted glass stones. It features four large oval-cut smoky topaz glass stones at the cardinal points, surrounded by several marquise-cut (navette) stones in lighter honey tones. Five small round iridescent Aurora Borealis (AB) rhinestones are strategically placed, including one at the central axis, providing flashes of blue and pink light that contrast with the earthy palette. The stones are all held in place by individual multi-prong dog-tooth settings, which is typical of high-quality mid-century costume jewelry. The construction appears to be a tiered 3D design, giving the piece significant depth and architectural interest. Regarding condition, there is some visible tarnish and metal fatigue on the prongs, particularly on the left-side oval stone where the silver-colored base metal is showing through the gold plating. The glass stones exhibit minor edge wear but remain largely clear without significant chips. Based on the style, metalwork, and use of AB rhinestones (introduced in 1955), this piece likely dates from the late 1950s to the 1960s. While no maker's mark is visible from the front, the complexity of the prong work suggests a better-tier costume house such as Weiss or Juliana (DeLizza & Elster).

I have virtually examined this mid-century sunburst brooch. The design features a sophisticated tiered architectural construction using high-quality 'dog-tooth' prong settings, characteristic of premium costume houses from the 1950s-60s. The use of aurora borealis rhinestones, developed by Swarovski in 1955, confirms a post-mid-50s manufacture date. The smoky topaz glass and navette stones remain vibrant, though the 'as-found' condition notes visible plate loss and tarnish on the settings where the base metal is exposed. These signs of metal fatigue and wear to the gold-tone finish prevent this piece from reaching the 'near-mint' pricing bracket. The market for unsigned high-end costume jewelry remains steady, particularly for sculptural 3D designs. While the complexity of the prong work is reminiscent of Juliana (DeLizza & Elster), the lack of a signature or distinctive verified D&E construction features (such as 'puddling' on the reverse) keeps the valuation in a more conservative range. If this were authenticated as an unsigned Juliana piece, the value could increase by 30-50%. Limitations: This appraisal is based solely on digital images. Without physical handling, I cannot verify the weight, the security of the pin mechanism, or the presence of hidden signatures on the reverse. A definitive authentication would require a tactile inspection to examine the 'solder puddling' techniques and back-side construction typical of specific manufacturers. Provenance regarding the original point of purchase or a matching signed set would also be required to elevate this from 'attributed' to 'verified' status.