Indian Polki and Ruby Hinged Bangle Bracelet

This is a significant example of traditional Indian jewelry, likely contemporary or late 20th-century 'Kundan' or 'Polki' style. The bracelet features a prominent central oval-cut ruby (possibly treated or glass-filled, given the deep saturation) bezel-set in a yellow gold-toned frame. Surrounding the ruby is an ornate floral cluster followed by tiered shoulders, all set with 'Polki' diamonds—these are uncut, flat-backed natural diamonds typical of Mughal-inspired craftsmanship. The stones are set using the Kundan technique, where silver or gold foil is placed beneath the stones to enhance brilliance, resulting in a distinctively dark outlined border around each gem. The main body of the bangle is constructed from a yellow metal (likely high-karat gold-plated silver or a 14k-18k gold alloy) featuring intricate floral engraving along the outer circumference and a pierced, openwork gallery on the interior. The bracelet utilizes a hinged mechanism with a traditional pin-and-screw or plunger clasp. Physical condition appears good with minor surface scratches on the metal and some darkening of the foil settings, which is common in this style. The craftsmanship suggests a high level of artisanal hand-work, specifically in the stone-setting and side engravings.

I have conducted a visual inspection of this Polki and Ruby hinged bangle. The piece exhibits characteristic traits of high-end Kundan craftsmanship, featuring uncut natural diamonds and a significant central ruby. The metalwork shows intricate hand-engraved floral motifs and a sophisticated openwork interior gallery, consistent with 18k gold or high-purity silver-gold alloys. The condition is excellent, showing only minor oxidation of the internal foil—a natural occurrence in this jewelry style that adds to its vintage character. The market for authentic Polki jewelry remains strong, particularly for pieces that bridge the gap between traditional Indian heritage and contemporary luxury. Value is driven by the sheer labor-intensive nature of the stone setting and the carat weight of the central gemstone. However, visual analysis alone has limitations. The ruby's deep saturation suggests possible heat treatment or glass filling, which significantly affects valuation; a lab report (GIA/GRS) would be required to confirm origin and treatment status. Furthermore, I cannot definitively verify the gold purity or identify if the stones are 'Syndicate' quality Polki without a physical acid test or thermal conductivity probe. For a final insurance-grade valuation, physical weighing of the gold content and a microscopic inspection of the foil settings are essential to rule out modern CAD-cast imitations.