Indian Polki and Ruby Hinged Bangle Bracelet
Fine Jewelry / Antique & Estate Jewelry

Indian Polki and Ruby Hinged Bangle Bracelet

This is a significant example of traditional Indian jewelry, likely contemporary or late 20th-century 'Kundan' or 'Polki' style. The bracelet features a prominent central oval-cut ruby (possibly treated or glass-filled, given the deep saturation) bezel-set in a yellow gold-toned frame. Surrounding the ruby is an ornate floral cluster followed by tiered shoulders, all set with 'Polki' diamonds—these are uncut, flat-backed natural diamonds typical of Mughal-inspired craftsmanship. The stones are set using the Kundan technique, where silver or gold foil is placed beneath the stones to enhance brilliance, resulting in a distinctively dark outlined border around each gem. The main body of the bangle is constructed from a yellow metal (likely high-karat gold-plated silver or a 14k-18k gold alloy) featuring intricate floral engraving along the outer circumference and a pierced, openwork gallery on the interior. The bracelet utilizes a hinged mechanism with a traditional pin-and-screw or plunger clasp. Physical condition appears good with minor surface scratches on the metal and some darkening of the foil settings, which is common in this style. The craftsmanship suggests a high level of artisanal hand-work, specifically in the stone-setting and side engravings.

Estimated Value

$4,500 - $6,000

Basic Information

Category

Fine Jewelry / Antique & Estate Jewelry

Appraised On

March 3, 2026

Estimated Value

$4,500 - $6,000

Item Description

This is a significant example of traditional Indian jewelry, likely contemporary or late 20th-century 'Kundan' or 'Polki' style. The bracelet features a prominent central oval-cut ruby (possibly treated or glass-filled, given the deep saturation) bezel-set in a yellow gold-toned frame. Surrounding the ruby is an ornate floral cluster followed by tiered shoulders, all set with 'Polki' diamonds—these are uncut, flat-backed natural diamonds typical of Mughal-inspired craftsmanship. The stones are set using the Kundan technique, where silver or gold foil is placed beneath the stones to enhance brilliance, resulting in a distinctively dark outlined border around each gem. The main body of the bangle is constructed from a yellow metal (likely high-karat gold-plated silver or a 14k-18k gold alloy) featuring intricate floral engraving along the outer circumference and a pierced, openwork gallery on the interior. The bracelet utilizes a hinged mechanism with a traditional pin-and-screw or plunger clasp. Physical condition appears good with minor surface scratches on the metal and some darkening of the foil settings, which is common in this style. The craftsmanship suggests a high level of artisanal hand-work, specifically in the stone-setting and side engravings.

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