Vintage Gold-Tone Fleur-de-Lis Tie Tack with Mother of Pearl and Security Chain

This is a vintage square tie tack featuring a central circular inlay of white mother-of-pearl or cabochon shell. The bezel and frame are constructed from a gold-toned base metal, likely gold-plated or gold-filled brass. The square face exhibits a fine cross-hatched or Florentine texture, highlighted by raised, decorative fleur-de-lis motifs at each of the four corners, suggesting a Mid-Century Modern or late Art Deco influence, likely dating from the 1950s to the 1970s. The piece includes a functional security assembly consisting of a gold-toned curb link chain attached to a T-bar, designed to anchor the tie through a shirt buttonhole. The metal shows minor signs of surface wear and light patina consistent with age, though no significant plating loss or deep scratches are visible. The central stone appears securely set within the raised metal border. While no visible maker's marks are discernible in the image, the casting of the fleur-de-lis and the precision of the cross-hatching indicate a quality mass-market fashion accessory for men's formal attire. The overall condition is good, maintaining high luster and structural integrity across the primary tack and the chain attachment.

I have conducted a visual examination of this vintage gold-toned fleur-de-lis tie tack. The piece exhibits characteristic mid-20th-century craftsmanship, specifically a Florentine finish and mother-of-pearl inlay consistent with mass-market men’s accessories from the 1950s–1960s. The condition is graded as 'Good' to 'Very Good,' with minor surface oxidation on the curb chain and T-bar, though the primary face maintains its aesthetic luster. The current market for vintage men's haberdashery remains niche. Comparables for non-precious metal tie tacks from brands like Swank or Hickok typically realize between $15 and $50 at retail. Because this item lacks a visible maker’s mark, its value is derived primarily from its design appeal and the integrity of the security chain assembly rather than brand heritage. Critically, a visual-only inspection limits my ability to confirm metallurgical composition. While it appears to be gold-plated base metal, I cannot rule out the possibility of it being 10K or 12K gold-filled without an acid test or XRF analysis. Furthermore, I cannot verify if the central stone is genuine nacre or a synthetic lucite substitute without a thermal conductivity test. For a definitive valuation, an in-person examination is required to check for hidden stamps on the post and to authenticate the shell inlay. This appraisal assumes the item is high-quality costume jewelry and would increase significantly if the metal were found to be solid karat gold.